Monday, May 26, 2025

Day 8 - Shani Shingnapur and Shirdi

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

TUESDAY, MAY 13

Our next destination was Shirdi, a temple town about 100 km west of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (formerly Aurangabad).

During our last visit to Shirdi several years ago, we had hoped to visit the Shani Shingnapur temple, around 70 km southeast of Shirdi. We couldn't make it then due to time constraints. This time, we were determined not to miss it.

Shani Shingnapur is a small village located about 80 km southwest of Sambhajinagar. We left our hotel at Chh Sambhajinagar in a cab around 8 am and reached the village by 10:30 am.

A village without locks

Shani Shingnapur is unlike any other village — none of the buildings here, including houses, shops, and even the local bank, have doors or locks!

A house without a door. Image credit: Swati Jain/BBC

This practice is rooted in a centuries-old legend. Around 300 to 400 years ago, after a flood, shepherds discovered a large black stone by the riverside. 

One of them had a dream in which Lord Shani (the Hindu deity associated with the planet Saturn) appeared and revealed that the stone was a manifestation of himself. The deity instructed that the stone be worshipped in the open, without any roof or enclosure.

Since then, the belief has persisted that Lord Shani protects the village, and anyone attempting theft would face divine punishment. As a result, the villagers have chosen to live without locks.

Temple visit and rituals

Upon arriving at the temple, we were immediately approached by a man who informed us that belts and watches were not allowed inside, as their metal fasteners resemble locks. He then led us to a nearby stall offering various ritual items arranged on a plate.

The holy black stone, the idol of Lord Shani. Image credit: Swati Jain/BBC 

He explained the significance of each item before quoting the cost. At this temple, poojas and rituals are performed by the devotees themselves. Since many visitors may not be familiar with the procedures, a guide is typically assigned, and he expects a donation at the end.

Interestingly, we noticed that most people didn't have the plateful of items we were offered. Either they had brought their own pooja items, or they picked just a few from the stall. Later, we came to know that there is no need to buy all the items; one could pick and choose.

Historically, women were barred from entering the temple's inner sanctum. However, a landmark court ruling in 2016 overturned this restriction. Still, many women choose to stay outside the sanctum, respecting long-standing traditions.

Arrival in Shirdi

We completed the rituals and left for Shirdi around 11 am. We reached there by 12:30 pm and checked into a hotel.

Also known as Sainagar, Shirdi is a small pilgrimage town spread across 13 square kilometres and home to about 36,000 people (as per the 2011 Census).

Sai Baba. Image credit: Shree Saibaba Sansthan Trust

The town is famous for its shrine dedicated to Sai Baba, a revered spiritual figure whose teachings transcended religious boundaries and attracted both Hindus and Muslims. Believed to have been born in 1838, Sai Baba arrived in Shirdi at the age of 16.

He was first seen meditating under a neem tree and lived an ascetic life, initially sleeping in a temple and later in a mosque. His teachings emphasised Shraddha (faith) and Saburi (patience), advocating love, peace, forgiveness, and the belief that God is one and omnipresent.

Sai Baba passed away in 1918, and a temple was built at the site of his samadhi (final resting place). Today, tens of thousands of devotees visit the shrine daily, regardless of their religious background.

Peaceful darshan and departure

We were fortunate to visit the temple when the crowd was relatively thin. Our went to the temple at 1 pm was smooth, and we returned to our hotel by 3 pm to rest. Unlike at Shani Shingnapur, here, there wasn't anyone compelling us to buy anything.

After an early dinner at 8 pm, we headed to the railway station to catch our train to Thane, the final destination of our Maharashtra tour.

Sainagar Shirdi Railway Station

Despite being a small town, Shirdi is well connected with its own railway station (operational since 2009) and an airport (opened in 2017). 

The  Sainagar Shirdi Railway Station.

The Sainagar Shirdi railway station is a bit removed from the main road. While the platform displays indicated train numbers and coach positions, we didn’t hear any announcements — perhaps because of the station’s limited traffic.

Trains connect Sainagar to several major cities. We boarded the 12132 Sainagar-Dadar Express, which operates on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.

The train departed on time and was expected to reach Thane around 4 am.

(To be continued)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series

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Wednesday, May 21, 2025

Day 7 - Sambhaji Nagar - Paithani saris, Bibi Ka Maqbara

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

MONDAY, MAY 12

After visiting the Ellora Caves and two temples, we had lunch and headed to two more places. 

Paithani saris

One of the most remarkable things about Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (formerly called Aurangabad) is its famous Paithani sari. 

Named after the town of Paithan, where these exquisite saris were first handwoven, Paithani remains a highly sought-after traditional garment, especially for festive occasions and weddings. 

Very often, we can see news items of celebrities flaunting the latest Paithani designs at public events.

Paithan itself was once the capital of the Satavahana dynasty around 200 BC, a fact that adds to the sari’s historical significance. Today, Yeola town in Nashik is known as the largest manufacturer of Paithani saris.


After lunch, we visited the Aurangabad Silk Mills on Paithan Road, close to the railway station. An official kindly took us inside and explained the intricate process of making Paithani fabric. 

The saris are either machine-made or handwoven on traditional looms using fine silk and zari threads; the latter is a process that can take several months to complete a single piece.

Intricate designs

Paithani saris gained immense popularity under the patronage of the Peshwas and the Nizams. During the 18th century, these saris became an essential part of the royal wardrobe.


We were told that what makes Paithani truly special is the “extra weft” technique, where additional threads are woven into the fabric to create intricate designs.

The motifs often feature peacocks, lotus flowers, and geometric patterns. The weaving technique is so unique that the design is visible on both sides of the fabric.


Thanks to online platforms like Flipkart and Craftsvilla, local weavers now have access to wider markets, allowing this exquisite handloom craft to thrive and remain accessible to sari lovers everywhere.

Himroo fabric

Another gem of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar is Himroo, a fabric made from a blend of silk and cotton grown locally. 


It was introduced to the city during the reign of Mohammad Tughlaq, who shifted his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad (now in Aurangabad).


The name Himroo comes from the Persian word Hum-ruh, meaning ‘similar’. This fabric is a beautiful replication of Kinkhwab, once woven with pure gold and silver threads exclusively for royal families. Today, Himroo remains a symbol of luxury and tradition.

Taj of the Deccan

We also visited Bibi Ka Maqbara. This mausoleum was commissioned in 1660 by Prince Azam Shah in memory of his mother, Dilras Banu Begum, wife of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb.


Bibi Ka Maqbara bears a striking resemblance to the Taj Mahal in Agra, built for Aurangzeb’s mother, Mumtaz Mahal. Thus is it is often referred to as the “Taj of the Deccan”. 

The monument stands majestically on a high square platform with four minarets at its corners. Nearby, there is a mosque added later by the Nizam of Hyderabad, though it is no longer used for prayers.


The mausoleum is open daily from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM. Entry fees are ₹25 for Indian citizens and ₹300 for foreign nationals, with free entry for children under 15 years.

It must be said that this monument ranks a shade below the Taj in terms of overall upkeep, with signs of neglect all too evident. The plasterwork on the minarets has worn out and blackened in a few places. 

Hopefully, the Archaeological Survey of India will act fast to restore the past glory of the monument and put in place measures to conserve it.

(To be continued)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series



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Friday, May 16, 2025

Day 7 - Sambhaji Nagar - Ellora Caves

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

We arrived back in Bengaluru this morning. The latter part of the 10-day tour was quite hectic, so I didn’t have much time to post updates. 

All in all, it was a very enjoyable holiday. We visited four cities, saw many interesting places, and caught up with a few friends, too.

The previous posts on the tour were published from the Blogger mobile app. The photos appear in a small size. I have made them bigger now.  

The travelogue resumes.

MONDAY, MAY 12

Our hotel had its own cab service, so arranging transport was easy. We started early – around 6.15 am.

The main highlight of our trip was the Ellora Caves. Though Ajanta Caves is equally famous, we skipped it as it’s over 100 km away.

Ellora is just 29 km from Aurangabad, and we reached there early, before the sun got too harsh. 

A foreigner?

At the ticket counter, I had a bit of an amusing encounter. 

When I told the official, "Two tickets, please," he asked me, "Are you a foreigner?" 

My "No, I'm Indian" followed by "From Bangalore in Karnataka" didn't seem to entirely convince him. 

I have no idea what made him think that I was a foreigner. Perhaps it was my hat. People here usually sport a cap. 

The ticket price difference is quite stark: ₹40 for Indians versus ₹600 for foreign visitors. The higher rate for foreigners is common at all Indian historical sites.

Anyway, without asking for any identification document, the official issued me two ₹40 tickets.

Do you need a guide?

Guides approached us, claiming to be government-approved and showing ID cards. 

But you don’t really need one, as there's enough info on the boards and plenty online. 

Still, a guide can enrich the experience by explaining the sculptures and stories behind them.

Caves 1 to 5

The marvel

Ellora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to one of the world’s largest rock-cut cave complexes. There are over 100 caves in total, though only 34 are open to visitors – 12 Buddhist, 17 Hindu, and 5 Jain.

Caves 1 to 5

The site stretches over 2 km. The caves are carved into the basalt cliffs of the Charanandri Hills.

The caves were built between 600 and 1000 AD, mainly during the Rashtrakuta and Yadava dynasties. Royals, traders and wealthy patrons funded these massive projects.

The hall in Cave 5 

Buddhist caves 1 TO 12

These were the earliest, built between the 6th and 8th centuries. Most of them are viharas or monasteries with prayer halls, living areas, and kitchens.

Hindu caves 13 TO 29

Cave 16



Built in two phases, the highlight of the segment of Hindu caves is Cave 16, the Kailash Temple. 

It’s an architectural wonder, carved from a single rock and shaped like a chariot dedicated to Lord Shiva. 

We were told that it took over 200 years and generations of workers to complete it.

Jain caves 30 TO 34

These are about 2 km away from the main group, but electric buggies make the ride easy. 



Though smaller, the carvings are intricate and beautiful. These caves have a very similar architectural style and devotional patterns.

Weather was kind 

It was warm but manageable. We had our hats and we kept sipping water mixed with Electral. 

(Electral is an oral rehydration salt formulation that can be added to water. It's good for rapid rehydration and energy replenishment.)

Two unique temples

We also visited two nearby temples:

Grushneshwar Jyotirlinga Temple, just half a kilometre away, is one of the 12 sacred Jyotirlingas of the Hindu god Shiva. (Jyotirlinga is a devotional representation of Shiva.) The temple had suffered significant damage during conflicts, and it was repeatedly rebuilt,  the latest restoration done in 1729.

The other one was the Bhadra Maruti Temple, about 4 km from Ellora, dedicated to Lord Hanuman in a rare reclining posture. Only one other such temple exists, in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, where the lord is in a reclining position.

Don't miss it

Ellora Caves are truly a marvel, not just for their size, but also for the skill, devotion and vision of the people who worked on them. To think these structures were carved centuries ago without modern tools is mind-blowing. If you ever get a chance, don’t miss it!

We visited two more places today. That will be in the next post in a few days.

(To be continued)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series


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Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Day 6 - Sambhaji Nagar - A special breakfast and a tryst with nature

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

SUNDAY, MAY 11

We reached Aurangabad Railway Station at 8.15 am — three hours behind schedule. Our train had left Pune late last night due to the delay of the incoming train, but the journey was smooth and comfortable.

Interestingly, while the city's name was changed to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar in 2023, the railway station still retains the old name. 

Our hotel was just under a kilometre away, so we decided to walk. The roads were quiet, and the morning sun was already making its presence felt.

Once, this was the capital 

Sambhaji Nagar is the largest city in the Marathwada region and the fifth-most populous in Maharashtra, after Mumbai, Pune, Nagpur and Nashik. Located on hilly upland terrain, it has a population of over 1.1 million.

This city is steeped in history. It has seen many rulers over the centuries. During the rule of the Delhi Sultanate, the capital was briefly moved to nearby Daulatabad, which is now a part of Sambhaji Nagar. 

Later, in 1636, Aurangzeb — then the Mughal viceroy of the Deccan — annexed the city into the Mughal Empire. He renamed it Aurangabad in 1653 and made it the capital of the Deccan region.

In those times, the city had 54 suburbs within its walls. The most prominent among them were Begumpura and Aurangpura. The city also had 54 gates, serving as protective arches -- only a few can be seen today.

Meeting my Hindi teacher

After freshening up, my friend came to pick us up at 9.30 am. We visited his home for breakfast. 

This friend is the brother of our friends from Pune, with whom we had dinner on the 9th. Their father, our Hindi teacher from school, now lives here, their ancestral place. 

It was a joy to meet Sir and his lovely family—his wife, son, daughter-in-law, and grandson. For breakfast, we had a traditional Maharashtrian dish called Thaalipeeth, served with butter, ghee, curd and payasam. A hot cup of tea followed. It was a heavy and satisfying meal.

We sat for a while, chatting and remembering our school days. Teachers like him shaped our lives in many ways, and we owe them a great deal.

After returning to the hotel in the afternoon, we took some much-needed rest. The overnight train journey and the blazing summer heat — around 40°C — had taken a toll on us.

Siddharth Garden and Zoo

By 5.30 pm, we headed out to Siddharth Garden and Zoo, located about 3 km from the railway station. I’ve always enjoyed watching animals and birds, and it was nice to see that many animals here, like tigers and leopards, were kept in open enclosures, not cages.


The place is well-maintained and quite vast. The lush green lawns, flowering plants, and majestic trees made for a peaceful setting.

Being a Sunday, it was crowded, with children making up much of the lively crowd. The garden is a favourite among joggers, photographers, and nature lovers.


The zoo has a good collection of animals — tigers, leopards, civet cats, snakes, crocodiles, foxes, deer, etc. There is even an aquarium with a colourful variety of fish. We also saw a large Buddha statue being decorated, ahead of Buddha Jayanti celebrations tomorrow.

After a light dinner, we returned to the hotel and called it a day.

Preparing for tomorrow

Tomorrow will be a day of sightseeing. Since it's summer, we plan to set out quite early, maybe around 6 am.

Hopefully, the climate change phenomenon will work in our favour, with maybe even an unexpected summer shower to bring the temperature down. 

Either way, we’re looking forward to exploring the historical treasures of this fascinating city.

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Sunday, May 11, 2025

Day 5 - Pune - Whirlwind tour and news flash

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

Yesterday, the 10th of May, turned out to be a super busy day for us in Pune! We managed to soak in so much history and culture before packing our bags for our next stop, Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar (formerly Aurangabad).

Shaniwar Wada 

Our first stop, soon after breakfast, was Shaniwar Wada. This impressive fort is a big landmark in Pune. 

The entrance to the fort

Built way back in 1732, it used to be the home of the Peshwas, who were like the "prime ministers" of the Maratha kingdom, until 1818. It's quite sad to hear that a big fire in 1828 destroyed most of the fort. Imagine, it was said to have been seven stories high!

The view from the top of the fort, that is the 1st floor.

We learned that Peshwa Baji Rao I started building his house here on a Saturday (Shaniwar in Marathi) in the year 1730, and that's how it got its name, Shaniwar Wada (Saturday Residence). The opening ceremony was also held on a Saturday, a lucky day, in 1732.

Lal Mahal

From the top of Shaniwar Wada, we could actually see our next destination, Lal Mahal (Red Palace), so we just took a short walk.

Lal Mahal

This place is really special because Shivaji Maharaj, the founder of the Maratha Empire, spent his childhood here. He lived here with his mother, Jijabai, until he captured Torna fort in 1645. His wedding to his first wife, Saibai, happened here in 1640.

It's interesting to know that the original Lal Mahal was ruined over time and eventually torn down. Apparently, some of its soil and stones were even used when building Shaniwar Wada, which was considered good luck! 

The current structure is actually a reconstruction, standing near where the original palace is thought to have been.

Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum 

Our next stop was the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, about a kilometre away, which we decided to walk to. There's an entry fee of ₹100, and they don't allow photography inside. 

But let me tell you, this museum is fantastic if you're interested in history and how everyday people in India used to live.

The museum is the collection of Dr. Dinkar G. Kelkar, a writer, art collector, and historian, who dedicated it to his son, Raja. 

The three floors are filled with all sorts of amazing things – sculptures, beautiful ornaments made of ivory, silver, and gold, a wonderful collection of musical instruments, and even old weapons and vessels, mostly from the 19th century.

I was told that Dr. Kelkar spent over 60 years collecting over 20,000 objects, including photographs, books, paintings, textiles, toys, and so much more! 

He wanted to create a place that showed the richness of Indian culture and everyday life. He even ran the museum until the government took over in 1985. It's truly a treasure trove! Really worth a visit if you are in Pune. 

Pataleshwar Cave

After the museum, we hopped into an autorickshaw for a short 2.5 km ride to the Pataleshwar Cave Temple. 

The entrance to the cave is through a large open area with big, shady trees, like banyan trees. It felt very peaceful there, with many people just relaxing and enjoying the calm atmosphere.

The Pataleshwar Cave is really old, dating back to the 8th century! It was built by the Rashtrakuta dynasty and is probably the oldest thing still standing in Pune. 

We walked down a few steps to a central circular platform, which is the Nandi mandap. It has 16 pillars supporting it, with a statue of the Nandi bull facing the main hall to the west.

What's amazing is that the entire temple is carved out of a single hill! Its name means "underground lord" because it's located below ground level.

Donald Trump's surprise announcement 

After we visited the cave, we returned to our hotel around 3 in the afternoon. We rested for a bit and then started packing our bags because we had a train to catch at 9:30 pm to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar.

While we were packing, around 5 pm, we saw a news flash on TV – US President Donald Trump announced that India and Pakistan had agreed to a ceasefire! 

It was definitely a very "Trump" kind of announcement! Because, though the US was talking to India and Pakistan, it wasn't openly involved in mediation.

Later that night, there were reports of explosions in Srinagar, which made us wonder if the ceasefire had already been broken. But it could also be that the news hadn't reached all the soldiers on the border yet.

It's good that the fighting is ending. Because an escalation could have had catastrophic consequences. 

Our train, which was supposed to leave at 9:30 pm, ended up being delayed by almost an hour and a half. 

Eventually, we boarded and started our journey towards Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, carrying with us the memories of a day filled with history, art, and the rather unexpected but good piece of news on the Kashmir conflict.

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Saturday, May 10, 2025

Day 4 - Pune - History, temple, and reminiscences

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

Yesterday (May 9) morning, we packed our bags and hopped over to a new hotel right in the heart of Pune city. It's much better being here, as many touristy places are close by. Our last place was about 20 kilometres away!

Uber and auto fare

We took an autorickshaw for the trip to the city centre, and I learnt something new. I had booked the ride on Uber. 

But the driver told me that I will have to pay according to what the fare meter in the vehicle displays and not what the app shows. 

I was confused, but I was told that the Pune corporation has allowed drivers to charge by the meter even if the booking is made via an app. I am told that sometimes the meter fare is lower than what the app shows.

While booking, the app says that the payment has to be made directly to the driver. 

How much did I pay? ₹50 more than what the Uber app showed.

Basically, the app is only for booking a ride. The fare doesn't apply. 


Aga Khan Palace  

Once we checked in, we headed straight for the Aga Khan Palace.

This was built by Sultan Muhammed Shah Aga Khan III way back in 1892.

But it's probably most famous for being where Mahatma Gandhi, his wife Kasturba, and his secretary Mahadev Desai were held as prisoners during India's independence movement.

The sculptures of Mahatma Gandhi struck me as very real. For a moment, I thought it was really Gandhi sitting there.

Both Kasturba and Desai passed away here while being held as prisoners. In the photo below, in the centre is Kasturba's 'samadi' (memorial), on the left is that of Desai, and on the right are the ashes of the Mahatma.


It's a really peaceful spot now, with lovely gardens and a museum where you can learn all about its past. The museum is rooms that were once used by our freedom fighters and national leaders.

After lunch, we spent the time indoors in the hotel room as it began to rain rather heavily.

Dagdusheth Halwai Ganesh temple
 
In the evening, we went to the Dagdusheth Halwai Ganapati Temple. It's a really vibrant and colourful temple, over 100 years old, dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the Hindu god of wisdom and new beginnings. 

The idol is 2.2 metres tall and 1 metre wide, and is adorned with nearly 40 kg of gold. Interestingly, unlike in other temples, the deity can be seen from outside the temple premises. 

The trust that administers the temple carries out a number of philanthropic activities with the money it receives from the devotees. 

Dinner with friends

From the temple, we went for dinner with three friends – they're siblings – and their families. They were my schoolmates way back in Kerala, and their dad was my Hindi teacher. 

(We will be meeting him in a few days when we go to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar.) 

It's been over 30 years since I last saw them. It was such a brilliant get-together, just chatting away and reminiscing about all our old school days.

It was truly lovely catching up and reliving those childhood memories. A proper good evening, it was!


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Thursday, May 8, 2025

Day 3 - Pune - A day of mixed emotions

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

Today was the wedding day of my wife's cousin's son. A day of joy and family reunion.

Old connections were renewed, and new ones were made. It was heartwarming to see relatives I hadn’t met in years and to share family updates and general banter.

My wife had a special moment today. She discovered that a relative of the groom’s father is from Bhopal, the city where she grew up and studied. As they talked, they realised they had many common acquaintances from Bhopal. 

It’s amazing how weddings can bring together people from different places and backgrounds, making the world feel a little smaller and friendlier.

Wedding rituals 

Kerala Nair weddings are known for their simplicity and warmth. The ceremonies are brief, focusing on family and togetherness rather than elaborate rituals. 

I won't go into all the details. It's all there on websites and YouTube. 

In a nutshell, the main rituals include the arrival of the groom and the bride, both getting the blessings of their parents, tying of the 'thali' (a sacred necklace) by the groom around the bride's neck, exchange of rings and garlands, presentation of a sari to the bride by the groom, and both walking around a lighted lamp seven times. 

That's about it. In about half an hour, it was all over. The ceremony ended with a 'sadya' or a feast. 

War-like scenario 

While the wedding was full of happiness, soon after, the mood shifted as news started coming in about rising tensions between India and Pakistan. 

Lots of developments have taken place throughout the day. 

Pakistan attempted to hit military installations in 15 cities in border states. All the attempts were thwarted by India's defence systems. 

India retaliated with drone attacks on Pakistan military assets in Lahore and Rawalpindi, which is the seat of their military establishment. Their defence systems were destroyed. 

In the night around 9, we got to know that Pakistan missiles, which were targeting Indian air bases, were intercepted and destroyed over the border states.

It's no longer occasional skirmishes or shelling over the border. It is very much a war-like scenario with blackouts and sirens going off in the border states. 

The US is speaking to both nations, asking them to de-escalate. India has clearly stated that every attempt to escalate will trigger a retaliation.

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Wednesday, May 7, 2025

Day 2 - Pune - News, nuisance, and festivities

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

This morning started with notifications on my phone of news about India's retaliatory strike on nine locations across the border in Pakistan, a response to the horrific terror attack in Pahalgam last month. This was also the only topic of discussion on almost all WhatsApp groups. 

While India's response was expected, I just hope that this will be the end of it and that we won't see any further escalation. The thought of prolonged conflict is deeply unsettling.

Loud music

Thankfully, our night's sleep was undisturbed by anything other than a fellow train passenger's inconsiderate behaviour. 

While the children slept soundly, a man, probably in his thirties, decided that the entire compartment needed to hear his audio experience. 

Despite clearly possessing earphones (I had seen him with them earlier), he chose to listen to whatever he was listening to from his phone's speakers. 

In the quiet of the night, the volume was loud. After enduring this for about half an hour, I politely requested him to turn it down. He did, momentarily, only to crank it up again a while later. 

A second, firmer request finally did the trick, and he switched it off entirely. Some people, honestly!

Train on time 

Despite yesterday's hour-long delay, the train surprisingly pulled into Pune station right on schedule around 10:15 am. This is our first time arriving in Pune by train; our previous visit was via a much quicker flight. 

Stepping out of the station, we were immediately greeted by the usual throng of autorickshaw drivers eager for fares. However, we bypassed them and made our way to the prepaid autorickshaw counter.

Booking a ride to our hotel, which is about 20 kilometres from the station, was straightforward. We were informed that there isn't a prepaid taxi service available, but an auto was perfectly fine for us, given our minimal luggage.

We reached the hotel around 11:40 am, and the check-in process was smooth and efficient. Within no time, we were settling into our room, ready for a bit of relaxation after the journey. The afternoon, post-lunch, was indeed spent unwinding.

Bigger than Mumbai

Many Indian cities have had their names changed over time. Pune was one of the first I remember—its name changed from Poona to Pune in 1978.

Located in western India, it is one of Maharashtra's major cities in western India. If one takes into account the area governed by the respective municipal corporations, Pune is the largest city in Maharashtra by area.

Pune Municipal Corporation covers about 518 sq km after including 23 adjoining villages. 

Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation, governing Mumbai, covers approximately 437.7 sq km (including Mumbai City district and Mumbai Suburban district). 

With about 70 lakh people, the city ranks as  India’s seventh-most populous metro region.

Known as the "Queen of the Deccan," Pune has a long history. It dates back to at least the 8th century under the Rashtrakutas, and later came under the Yadavas and various Islamic sultanates. 

In the 17th century, it became the centre of the Maratha Empire. After the Marathas were defeated in 1818, the British took over and developed it as a cultural and educational hub.

Not really Bengaluru's twin

It's generally said that Pune's weather is similar to that of Bengaluru. I felt that Pune was a bit hotter than Bengaluru. But during winter, the weather is probably comparable. 

Another similarity people talk about is the IT infrastructure. Pune is a major IT hub with a strong presence of service companies and opportunities, especially given its proximity to Mumbai. However, it lacks the scale of global tech giants and startup density found in Bengaluru, which has a more extensive IT backbone and enjoys better government backing. 

Education is one sector in which both cities are broadly comparable. Pune is known as the 'Oxford of the East', and both have several leading educational institutions. 

Family gathering  

In the evening, we joined the families of the bride and groom for a brief Sangeet ceremony in the hotel itself. 

It was a vibrant and joyous occasion, filled with music, dance, and laughter, culminating in a delicious dinner. It's a wonderful family gathering, catching up with relatives and friends.

Tomorrow is the main event – the wedding itself. It will be a day filled with tradition, love, and more joyous moments.
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Tuesday, May 6, 2025

Day 1 - Chugging along to Pune

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

We are on our way to Pune for the wedding of my wife's cousin's son.

We set off from home at 14:30, and the first leg of our journey was a breeze thanks to the Bengaluru Metro. Honestly, it's a lifesaver in a city like Bengaluru with all its traffic.
 
From my doorstep to the metro platform takes 15 minutes, and then 25 minutes by metro to reach the Bengaluru City Railway Station. By road, that same distance would take at least an hour! 

No indication of coach position 

We arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, and our train, the 11014 Kurla Express (Coimbatore-Lokmanya Tilak Terminus Express), pulled in right on schedule at 15:45.

Usually, the display boards clearly show where each coach will be on the platform, which makes boarding so much simpler. But today, strangely, there was no such indication.

Thankfully, with a 15-minute halt, we had enough time to walk down the platform and find our coach without too much fuss.

Delayed departure

The scheduled departure was 16:00, but we ended up leaving at 16:22 The reason for the delay was not known.

Barely five minutes into our journey, the train came to a complete stop. No idea why, and the AC went off. Possibly some technical glitch.

We finally got going at 16:50.

On a brighter note, the tea I had on the train was very good – much better than the usual ₹10 cuppa I've had before!

The coach is quite lively with a few children, having a whale of a time.

We had another brief, unscheduled stop at Yelahanka Junction. I noticed that between platform 1 and 2, there was only a single track. That means you could board or alight using either platform 1 or platform 2.

Usually, in stations, especially those big enough to be classified as a junction, there are at least two tracks between platforms. 

Around 20:30, we tucked into the dinner we'd packed from home. 

Delay is fine 

The train is currently running about an hour behind schedule, but that actually works out quite well for us.

Because if it continues to be an hour late, we should arrive at our hotel in Pune right around our check-in time of midday.

If the train catches up and arrives on time, we will be early at the hotel, and hopefully, the room is ready for early occupancy.

Hopefully, the children will quieten down in time for sleep.

(I must clarify here that usually trains are on time. Even if they are delayed for some reason, they make up for it, especially during the night. The delay today may be an exception.)
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Friday, May 2, 2025

Thank you!

This is a cross-post from LinkedIn.

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On April 30, I stepped into a new phase of life after my superannuation from The Hindu.

Interestingly, The Hindu was also the first newspaper I worked with — as an intern in Thiruvananthapuram, during July and August of 1987, while pursuing my post-graduation in Mass Communication and Journalism (MCJ) at the University of Kerala.

After completing my BSc in Chemistry, it was a tough call: should I go for a master’s in Chemistry, which would have been the obvious next step, or take a completely different route with MCJ?

After a lot of contemplation, I chose the latter.

That was back in 1985. What tipped the scale was my deep interest in current affairs (General Knowledge was a favourite subject in school) and my growing love for news.

Three years later, I got my first job — and since then, it has been an exciting journey of learning and discovery.

Journalism gave me the opportunity to understand so many aspects of the world around me — its social fabric, historical complexities, traditional routines, cultural nuances, political compulsions, business dynamics, personal stories, and technological transformations.

I couldn’t have asked for more.

In this new phase, I know I’ll miss the newsroom. But the compensation is a slower, more relaxed pace of life — one where I hope to do many of the things I had to put off all these years.

Though I may no longer be part of a media organisation, my passion for current affairs remains as strong as ever. I’m sure the many exciting developments around the world — especially in technology, which continues to fascinate me — will keep me engaged.

Journalism, after all, is not just about events. It's also about language — the vehicle that carries the message. So I know I’ll continue to be obsessed with adjectives and adverbs, clauses and conjunctions, punctuations and prepositions!

I’m deeply grateful to the six news organisations I worked for in six cities, and to everyone I’ve had the privilege of meeting and/or working with. I’ve learned so much from them all.

Looking forward to staying connected.

Thank you once again!

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