Malana: Don't touch the villagers

Day 13 of the "virtual (digital) tour" of places known for unusual customs, practices, mysterious phenomena. This post is part of the A to Z Challenge and Blogchatter A2Z 2026

Malana is a village situated at an altitude of 2,652 metres in the Parvati Valley of Himachal Pradesh, in northern India.

While the place is geographically part of India, the villagers, numbering around 4,500 follow their own ancient system of governance and justice. 

The village is administered by a bicameral parliament, consisting of an upper house called the Jayeshthang and a lower house known as the Kanishthang.

However, the ultimate authority is not human; the village is ruled by its deity, Jamlu Devta. All major administrative decisions are believed to be direct decrees from Jamlu, communicated through a spiritual spokesperson known as the Gur.

Image courtesy: BBC / © Sauriêl Creative |
Samantha Leigh Scholl/Alamy

'NO TOUCHING' RULE

Perhaps the most unique custom is the village's strict taboo on physical contact. To preserve the "purity" of their community, residents prohibit outsiders from touching them, their belongings, or their sacred temples.

Touching a temple or a designated holy place can result in an immediate fine ranging from ₹2,500 to ₹3,500.

When buying items from a local shop, visitors are expected to leave their money on the counter or the ground rather than handing it directly to the shopkeeper.

Villagers have even been known to bathe immediately if they are accidentally touched by an outsider, in order to wash away the perceived misfortune.

MALANA CREAM

Beyond its customs, Malana is renowned for "Malana Cream", a strain of hashish. It is produced using a specific hand-rubbing technique that extracts resin from live cannabis plants. The possession of cannabis is illegal under Indian law. 

While all these unusual customs and practices have drawn significant number of tourists, the villagers themselves remain very protective of their culture.

(Information sources: BBC, The Times of India, The Hindustan Times)

Previous posts in the series

Asur	Bhangarh	Channapatna dog temple
Dhinga Gavar	Edakkal caves	Floating stones
Ghost lights	Hakki Pikki	Idu Mishmi
Jatinga	Kodinhi	Living root bridges

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Kodinhi, India's village of twins

Day 11 of the "virtual (digital) tour" of places known for unusual customs, practices, mysterious phenomena. This post is part of the A to Z Challenge and Blogchatter A2Z 2026

Kodinhi is a village in the Malappuram district of north Kerala, and its claim to global fame lies in the unusually high number of twins born here.

The village has around 2,000 families, and there are more than 400 pairs of twins. The twin birth rate is about 45 per 1,000 births, compared to India’s average of 9 per 1,000.

THE DISCOVERY

How this phenomenon was discovered is interesting. In 2006, in a classroom, two twin sisters noticed that there were several other pairs like them. What started as simple curiosity soon turned into a small survey, which revealed that this was no coincidence.

By 2008, a village-wide effort confirmed the astonishing numbers. This led to the creation of the Twins and Kins Association (TAKA), a unique organisation in India that supports families with twins and multiple births.

Image courtesy: NDTV

THE REASON

Scientists, including teams from Europe, have studied the village and even collected DNA samples in search of answers. Yet, no conclusive corelation has been established as to why this particular place has such a high number of twins.

Some researchers suggest that something in the local water or air may play a role, but no specific element has been identified. Another belief is that the local diet could be a factor. In some parts of the world, foods like yam are thought to increase the chances of twins. However, Kodinhi residents largely follow a typical Kerala diet of rice and coconut, which makes this theory uncertain.

Genetics seems like an obvious explanation, but it does not fully fit. While some families have a history of twins, others do not. Interestingly, women from Kodinhi have been known to give birth to twins even after moving away from the village.

THREE OTHER PLACES

Kodinhi is not alone. Similar patterns have been observed in places such as Igbo-Ora in Nigeria, Cândido Godói in Brazil, and Hung Loc Commune in Vietnam.

Though this unusual phenomenon has brought recognition to the village, reports have suggested that it has also placed financial strain on families. Most residents are engaged in farming and small businesses, and raising twins often results in financial challenges.

(Information sources: BBC, The News Minute, Outlook Traveller, The Times of India, NDTV, Money Control, Wikipedia)

Previous posts in the series

Asur	Bhangarh	Channapatna dog temple
Dhinga Gavar	Edakkal caves	Floating stones
Ghost lights	Hakki Pikki	Idu Mishmi
Jatinga

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Hakki Pikki: From forests to global markets

Day 8 of the "virtual (digital) tour" of places known for unusual customs, practices, mysterious phenomena. This post is part of the A to Z Challenge and Blogchatter A2Z 2026

India has a very diverse and vast community of tribespeople. Among them are the Hakki Pikki in the south Indian state of Karnataka. Their story is quite an interesting one; a journey from forest-based livelihoods to global trade networks.

The name “Hakki Pikki” comes from the local Kannada language: hakki meaning bird and pikki meaning to catch. They are traditionally known for bird catching, a skill that once sustained them in forested habitats.

Over time, changing laws and social and environmental pressures have forced them to move away from this occupation.

THEIR ORIGINS

The Hakki Pikki are believed to have roots in northern India, particularly in Gujarat and Rajasthan. They are linked to the legendary Rajput ruler Rana Pratap, suggesting a warrior lineage. 

After his death, they are said to have migrated southwards, passing through Andhra Pradesh before eventually settling in Karnataka. Today, they are concentrated mainly in the districts of Davangere, Mysuru, Kolar, Hassan, and Shivamogga.

In the mid-20th century, government rehabilitation drives relocated many families from forest areas to the fringes of towns and cities. According to the 2011 Census, their population in Karnataka stands at just under 12,000, making them a relatively small but distinct community.

A woman at work in their colony
on the outskirts of Bengaluru.
Photo credit: Wenceslaus Mendes/ Frontline

LIVELIHOOD

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Hakki Pikki story is their livelihood.

Drawing on generations of indigenous knowledge, they specialise in herbal medicines, particularly Ayurvedic oils and natural remedies.

What sets them apart, however, is the extent of their outreach. Many of them travel internationally, especially to African and Gulf countries, where they sell these products directly. In April 2023, over 300 Hakki Pikki members were stranded in Sudan during a violent conflict after travelling there for trade.

Despite limited formal education, they have adapted quickly to modern tools. Platforms like WhatsApp help them coordinate across borders, while apps like Shopify enable online sales, making them unlikely but effective global entrepreneurs.

Closer to home, families supplement their income by crafting artificial garlands and decorative items for urban markets.

CHALLENGES

Education remains a key hurdle. While children now attend government schools and aspire to professional careers, language is an issue. Their mother tongue, Vaagribooli — closely related to Gujarati — differs from Kannada, the medium of instruction in schools in Karnataka. There are also social concerns, including alcoholism.

Another challenge is historical stigma. The Hakki Pikki were once classified under the Criminal Tribes Act as a “criminal tribe”, a label imposed during colonial rule. Though the Act itself was repealed in 1952, its shadow lingers, often leading to suspicion and discrimination.

Scholars and activists have argued that the community’s specific needs are often overlooked when they are grouped broadly under Scheduled Tribe categories. There are growing calls for more targeted recognition and welfare measures.

QUIRKY TRAITS

There are some unusual cultural practices among them.

• Unlike most Indian communities, it is the groom’s family that bears the wedding expenses and pays dowry to the bride’s family.
  
  
• Women play a central role in family and social decision-making.
  
  
• Children are often named after places or professions. Names such as "Japan", "America", "Lawyer", "Coffee", and "Mysore Pak" are not unusual.

ADAPTATION AND RESILIENCE

From bird catching in forests to selling herbal remedies across continents ... their journey reflects resilience, adaptability, and ingenuity.

Unlike many indigenous communities that struggle to adapt, the Hakki Pikki seem to have achieved a balance between preserving their identity and embracing modern realities.

(Information sources: Wikipedia, National Law School of India University, Down To Earth, Frontline)

Previous posts in the series:

Asur	Bhangarh	Channapatna dog temple
Dhinga Gavar	Edakkal caves	Floating stones
Ghost lights

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Dhinga Gavar: Jodhpur’s fun festival

Day 4 of the "virtual (digital) tour" of places known for unusual customs, practices, mysterious phenomena.

Dhinga Gavar is a lively and unusual festival celebrated in the desert city of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. Besides the religious part, it is known for humour, disguises, and the curious tradition of women chasing men with sticks.

Unlike the more widely known Gangaur festival celebrated across India, Dhinga Gavar is unique to Jodhpur, particularly within the narrow lanes of the old city. It encourages women to step outside social norms and celebrate their independence.

MYTHOLOGY AND TIMELINE

The festivities last 16 days, beginning the day after the spring festival of Holi. According to legend, Lord Shiva once playfully teased his wife Goddess Parvati by disguising himself as a humble cobbler. In retaliation, Parvati appeared before him as a Bhil tribal woman to have some fun of her own.

This divine exchange of disguises forms the symbolic basis of the celebrations.

MEN WANT TO GET BEATEN BY WOMEN

Women carrying sticks to playfully strike men who cross
their path. - Vipingoyal/Wikipedia 

Several distinctive rituals mark the 16-day celebration. On the final evening, statues of the goddess are installed at 11 important locations across the old city. These idols are dressed in elaborate traditional attire and adorned with heavy gold jewellery, sometimes weighing between 5 kg and 30 kg.

The final night is the most dramatic. Women who have been observing fast, dress in elaborate costumes and patrol the streets all night to symbolically protect the statues of Dhinga Gavar.

During their night patrol, women carry sticks called baint, and they playfully strike men who cross their path.

According to local belief, any unmarried man struck by a woman’s stick during the festival is likely to get married within a year. Consequently, many young men deliberately wander near the Teejanias—sometimes even teasing them—hoping to receive a “lucky strike”.

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Information sources: The Times of India, Government of Tourism, Wikipedia

Previous posts in the series: Asur, Bhangarh, Channapatna dog temple   

(This post is part of the A to Z Challenge and Blogchatter A2Z 2026)

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Bhangarh, India's 'haunted city'

Day 2 of the "virtual (digital) tour" of places known for unusual customs, practices, mysterious phenomena.

People visit places for various reasons. Some for their beauty, others for their history. And then there are places like Bhangarh Fort in Rajasthan, which draw travellers simply because of a rather unusual reputation.

Bhangarh is widely described as “the most haunted city in India”. Whether one believes the stories or not, the tag has stuck to this place that is now ruined and deserted.

It is close to the Sariska Tiger Reserve forests; and from what I have read, it's like any other abandoned historical site: scattered temples, old market streets and the remains of a once-impressive palace.

Bhangarh Fort.
Image courtesy: Rajasthan Tourism 

FOLKLORE

Behind the tag of "haunted city" is, as you can expect, a legend.

The most popular story is about a sorcerer named Singhia and a beautiful Princess Ratnavati.

Apparently, the wizard fell hopelessly in love with the princess, and he tried to cast a love spell on a bottle of perfume meant for her.

The princess, however, discovered the trick. She threw the bottle onto a nearby rock. The rock rolled down and crushed the sorcerer.

But before dying, the man is said to have cursed the city, declaring that Bhangarh would turn into a ruin where no one could live.

Some local residents believe the ruins are inhabited not by ghosts but by djinns, mysterious supernatural beings said to occupy abandoned places.

'EERIE PHENOMENA'

Many visitors claim to have experienced strange phenomena there like

• Footsteps echoing in empty corridors
  
  
• Screeching sounds or distant voices at night
  
  
• Stones apparently being thrown from nowhere

Some say after dark the silent bazaar streets seem to come alive again, as if the long-vanished town briefly returns to life.

The most quirky thing is that of a signboard. 

At the entrance to the ruins, the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) placed a notice stating that entry into the fort complex is prohibited between sunset and sunrise. 

For many visitors, this restriction sounded like official confirmation that supernatural phenomenon happens here at night. So the board has since been removed.

But the official Rajasthan tourism website does have this sentence:

"As it is considered a haunted place the Bhangarh fort remains out of bound for visitors before sunrise and after sunset."

LOGICAL EXPLANATIONS

For every claim there are counter-claims too. 

Authorities say the area borders a dense forest and wildlife occasionally wanders through the ruins. The rule regarding visiting hours is meant purely as a safety precaution, and that such rules exist in other isolated places as well.

Historians says Bhangarh’s decline was due to political conflicts during the time of Sawai Jai Singh II, while others mention famine or economic decline.

Some psychologists say that if you go with a preconceived notions, most often what happens will seem to coincide with the preconceived belief. Like for example, the rustle of leaves, might appear to be ghostly, if you have a fear of ghosts. 

THE TAG HAS STUCK

All said and done, once a place earns a haunted reputation, logic rarely wins the argument.

Today, Bhangarh thrives on this quirky fame. Travellers arrive not only to see the ruins but also to experience the thrill of standing in India’s “most haunted” city.

Whether the spirits are real or not, Bhangarh has turned a mystery into a tourist attraction!

(Information sources: Rajasthan Tourism, The Hindu, NDTV, Wikipedia)

(This post is part of the A to Z Challenge and Blogchatter A2Z 2026)

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Asur, who mourn during Durga Puja

(Today I begin a month‑long virtual tour across India, exploring places known for unusual customs, practices, and mysterious phenomena. Each day of the month, except the four Sundays, I will share a blog post about one of these remarkable sites. Here is the first of 26 posts.)

The Asur people are a small Austroasiatic ethnic group and are officially recognized as one of India's Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Groups (PVTG). They identify themselves as the world’s ancient metallurgists who provided the iron that allowed human civilization to advance.

Claiming descent from the "Asuras" mentioned in ancient Sanskrit literature, they speak Asur (or Asuri), a language belonging to the Munda family that is currently listed as an endangered language by UNESCO.

(Asuras are a class of powerful, demigods known for their opposition to the gods.)

DURGA PUJA

A cultural troupe of the Asur community. Image courtesy: The Indian Express

One of the most distinct cultural traits of the Asur people is their perspective on Durga Puja. 

Durga Puja is a major 10-day Hindu festival celebrated in September-October, honouring Goddess Durga’s victory over the demon Mahishasura, symbolising the triumph of good over evil. 

While much of India celebrates this festival, the Asur community mourns during this period. This practice stems from their belief that Mahishasura was their benevolent ancestor.

The former chief minister of Jharkhand Shibu Soren of the Jharkhand Mukti Morcha party opposed the burning of effigy of Raavan, a very common practice on Dasara (the 10th day of the festival) all across India, and he refused to take part in programmes.

IRON-SMELTERS

Sushma Asur, a poet. Outlook

The Asur predominantly are in the state of Jharkhand. Their population is concentrated in the districts of Gumla, Lohardaga, Palamu, and Latehar. They are also found in Bihar and West Bengal. Based on the 2011 census, their population is estimated to be approximately 33,000. 

Traditionally, the Asur were primitive iron-smelters, using indigenous furnaces to create high-quality metal, a craft they associated with fertility and ancient wisdom. Historically, they also engaged in hunting, gathering, and shifting agriculture. However, modern industrialization and the loss of forest control have forced a shift in their economy. Today, the vast majority are classified as cultivators. 

Due to bauxite mining on their ancestral lands, many community members have also transitioned into working as daily wage labourers in the mining sector.

COUNTER-NARRATIVE

Asur's version of history is a fascinating "counter-narrative" passed down through oral traditions. By choosing to remember their hero while the world cheers his downfall, the Asurs offer a rare, unusual glimpse into the diversity of Indian belief.

(Information sources: International Journal for Multidisciplinary Research, Asur Adivasi Wisdom Akhra, India Today, Wikipedia)

(This post is part of the A to Z Challenge and Blogchatter A2Z 2026)

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Movie: Sitaare Zameen Par

A few days ago, I went for a movie. It must be at least two years since I last went out for a film. 

It was for Aamir Khan’s Sitaare Zameen Par (Stars on Earth).

Though this film is similar to his own 2007 film Taare Zameen Par (Stars on Earth), the story is very different. This is an official remake of 2018 Spanish movie Champions.

The central theme is: differently abled people are no less intelligent or less smart than any one of us. In fact, the so-called “normal” people have a lot to learn from the so-called “disabled”.

Gulshan, played by Aamir Khan, is a school basketball coach. He is very good at his game but not as a person. He is full of ego, short-tempered, doesn't know how to get on with people, etc.

He gets into trouble during a tournament and the case reaches the court which asks him to do community service in lieu of a jail term. 

His job: train a basketball team of young adults who are intellectually challenged.

At first, he doesn’t take it seriously, but slowly, the team changes his perspective. 

And he is reformed.

In the end at one point he says: "I am not their coach, they are my coach."

One message from the film was "Everyone has their own kind of normal".

This is a sensitive topic, and Aamir Khan has handled it very well. 

Though there a fair amount of comedy thrown in, characters' personalities are shown with the seriousness and respect they deserve. They are at no point shown as helpless. 

In real life too

It's not the theme alone that makes this movie purposeful, it's also the fact that many of the actors live with disabilities in real life. 

For example, Gopi Krishnan Varma, who plays the role of 'Guddu', has Down Syndrome. He has previously acted in a Malayalam movie, Thirike (2021). 

So too, is Simran Mangeshkar who plays the role of 'Golu'.

Samvit Desai, who is 'Kareem' in the movie, is neurodivergent. Rishi Sahani and Ayush Bansali too are intellectually challenged.

Genelia Deshmukh plays the role of Aamir's wife Sunita, and comes across well in the limited screen time she gets.

What the film seemed to lack

On the downside, I thought the transformation of Gulshan, the coach, didn't come across as powerfully as it should have. There were several points to it, but it didn't look like he was a changed person.

Also, as the movie progressed, many of the sequences in the initial stages seemed predictable, and I seriously wondered where was the story heading to, and how it would end. 

But, I must say, the ending was good, and it packed and delivered the social message quite well.

I’d give a rating of 4 out of 5. 

Overall, a simple, emotional story with an important social message told with warmth and respect.

India’s falling fertility rate: Should we be worried or relieved?

If you asked someone, “What’s the biggest challenge India is facing today?” chances are high that you’d hear: overpopulation.

From traffic jams and garbage dumps to unemployment and corruption, so many of our problems seem to link back to too many people.

Since 2023, India has held the title of the world’s most populous country, with an estimated 1.46 billion people, overtaking China which has around 1.41 billion. 

But now, something significant has happened, quietly but surely: India’s fertility rate has dropped below the replacement level for the first time in history.

What low fertility rate means

The Total Fertility Rate (TFR) is the average number of children a woman has in her lifetime. 

The replacement level, which is 2.1, is the average number of children that is needed for a population to replace itself without migration. 

India’s TFR is now 1.9.

In the 1950s, our TFR was around 6.2. That’s a huge shift.

South Indian states like Kerala and Tamil Nadu have led the decline, while northern states such as Uttar Pradesh and Bihar still have higher fertility rates.

Why fertility rate has dropped

There are several reasons:

* Cost of living has been going up, but income has been rising much slowly

* There is better access to education and careers for both women and men

* Attitudes towards marriage and parenting have been changing

* More people are choosing to marry later, or not at all

Today’s millennials and Gen Z simply don’t feel the same pressure to start large families. Some don’t want children at all, while many prefer to raise just one.

Low fertility rate: good or bad?

Well, it has some benefits:

• Fewer people means less demand for resources, infrastructure, and public services
  
  
• Families and governments can invest more in each child’s health and education
  
  
• Quality of life gets better

But there’s a flip side too:

• Number of older people will steadily become more than younger ones. By 2050, over 20% of Indians will be senior citizens, that is double the current figure
   
• Fewer working-age people may impact productivity and economic growth
  
  
• More elderly people could also mean higher spending on healthcare, pensions, and social support
  
  
• Loneliness, already a big problem, may get just worse

Have more kids?

India’s historic family planning campaign, launched in 1952, carried slogans like Hum do, hamaare do (We two, our two) to encourage smaller families. It seems to have worked. In fact, the slogan gradually became Hum do, hamaare ek (We two, our one). 

Over the past year, there have been suggestions from some leaders that the trend has to be reversed.

In December last year, RSS chief Mohan Bhagwat said families should have at least three children, warning that a fertility rate below 2.1 could spell the extinction of communities.

Over the past few months, Andhra Pradesh Chief Minister N. Chandrababu Naidu has been echoing similar thoughts. “I used to advocate family planning. Now I’m promoting population growth. India’s biggest strength is its demographic dividend. If we manage it well, our future is bright.”

He’s even hinted at financial incentives for larger families.

While such voices are still few, they’re becoming louder, and some of their warnings feel a bit alarmist.

Do we need to panic?

Not really.

Even though TFR is now below 2.1, India’s population is expected to keep growing until around 2065, reaching a peak of 1.7 billion. A decline will begin only after that, and any major negative effects will take even longer to appear.

So, while this shift is historic and important, there’s no need to rush into drastic policy changes.

What should we do?

Instead of pushing people to have more children, we should focus on making it easier for those who do want to raise families. For example:

• Affordable childcare
  
  
• Tax incentives
  
  
• Better parental leave policies
  
  
• Simpler, transparent adoption procedures

These practical measures help families balance work and home life, and let couples make decisions based on their own comfort, not societal pressure.

Leverage demographic strength

India is at a crucial moment. The drop in fertility rate shows that social change is happening, and fast.

But it doesn’t mean the sky is falling. With thoughtful policies and forward-thinking support systems, India can maintain a sustainable population and continue to benefit from its demographic strength.

Let’s not panic about fewer children. Let’s focus on making sure every child and family thrives.

Champu Khangpok: A floating village

This newspaper article caught my eye:

Fishermen in India's only natural floating village in Manipur to get ID cards

The article is about how the fisherfolk of the Champu Khangpok village will get identity cards so that they can benefit from government schemes. 

This is not an ordinary village. It's floating on water! The extraordinary nature of this habitation led me to read up more on it.

Champu Khangpok villagers. (Pic X/@LDA_Manipur)

UNIQUE FOUNDATION

The houses are built on phumdis or floating biomass formations. 

They are primarily constructed from bamboo, aquatic vegetation, and plastic sheets, ensuring they remain lightweight yet resilient. 

To strengthen the phumdis, additional biomass is periodically added underneath the huts. Wooden planks are often used to create pathways for safe movement across wet and uneven surfaces. 

The phumdis, which can be as thick as two metres, are stable enough to support structures and provide buoyancy to the village, allowing it to float seamlessly on the lake's surface.

This village has around 100 huts and 400 people. This is just a ballpark figure since there doesn't seem to be an official record.

CHALLENGES

Although phumdis provide a stable base for the houses, the floating village faces several challenges.

Environmental factors, such as strong winds and changing water levels, can shift large masses of phumdi, occasionally disrupting the community. For example, there was an instance when extreme weather events trapped some villagers. That just demonstrated the vulnerability of these structures to climate variations.

To counter these challenges, residents have figured a way out -- they switched to traditional construction techniques and maintenance practices. 

They also began using bamboo and stones to prevent the huts from drifting. The flexible nature of bamboo structures allowed them to withstand the movement of water and wind. 

DAILY LIFE

The villagers' main source of income is fishing. Men typically fish, while women transport and sell the catch in local markets. 

It's amazing how, for generations, the residents have coexisted with the uniquely rich biodiversity and resources of Loktak Lake. A remarkable example of harmony with nature.

Oppenheimer: Free speech and political correctness

I recently watched Oppenheimer. It was after a long time that I went to a cinema.

Needless to mention, it's such a well-made film, with excellent acting, photography, editing, and direction.

What struck me the most was how little has changed when it comes to socio-political dynamics. Everything has remained the same; only situations, issues, organisations, and people have changed.

Oppenheimer's political views and activities were at odds with what prevailed at that time. He was closely monitored and was the subject of many an investigation.

It's said that being politically correct need not be a total infringement of free speech and that it means being respectful of other viewpoints and avoiding language that can be disrespectful.

However, balancing freedom of speech and being politically correct can be a tightrope walk. Plenty of examples in these times, aren't there?

Did Oppenheimer accept the invitation to join the Manhatten Project only because the scientific challenge was irresistible? 

What if he hadn't joined the Manhattan Project citing the dangers of developing the atomic bomb? 

Would that have been cited as him being unpatriotic, especially in light of his political views?

Unique Coorgi wedding

Though I have been in Karnataka for over 20 years, I have never been to the hill station of Kodagu (Coorg in English). 

I don't think it's unusual for us to overlook well-known places in our own state or country while we travel to many distant touristy spots. 

For example, during my first trip to the US in November 2008, I visited the National Mall in Washington, DC and the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia. I remember my cousin, who resided in Virginia and hosted me, telling me they had never been to both places, even after being in the US for almost two decades!

The wedding of my office colleague gave me a chance to visit Kodagu, finally.

LAND OF KODAVAS

A small introduction to Kodagu. 

It is one of the 31 districts in Karnataka in southwest India. 

The original inhabitants of the place are called Kodavas, an ethnolinguistic group quite distinct from people of the rest of the state. They are traditionally landowning peasants who worship weapons. 

Kodavas are good at martial arts and also in sports, especially hockey. They had good representation in the Indian Army in its formative years after Independence.

The scenic hilly Kodagu (renamed Coorg by the British) is among the top tourist destinations in South India. I found the topography very similar to Kerala (my home state).

The wedding was in Gonikoppal town on February 5. It's a 6-hour drive from Bengaluru.

BYLAKUPPE

We left Bengaluru the previous day early morning at 6.15.

On the way, we took a detour to visit Bylakuppe, home to the second largest Tibetan settlement in the world, after Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh in north India. This is my 2nd visit to the place. I was there in October 2006.

Probably because it was a weekend, the place was swarming with tourists. 

A lot has changed in the last 16 years. Many buildings, shopping complexes and vehicle parking lots have come up.

GOLDEN TEMPLE

The entrance to the monastery.

There are six Tibetan monasteries; the most famous is the Namdroling Monastery of Nyingma (Nyingmapa). 

The main temple here is Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara. But people gave it the simpler name of Golden Temple because of the large gold-plated statues of Buddha and saints Padmasambhava, Sukhayami and Amitayus. That name has stuck over the years, not just for the temple but for the monastery as well.

The Golden Temple

The prayer hall

The walls of the prayer hall have beautiful Tibetan Buddhist paintings called Thangka. There is also a lovely garden. 

GONIKOPPAL

We spent about 45 minutes there. Then, we left for Gonikoppal, also called Gonikoppa, at 12.30 pm. It took about an hour to reach the place.

We had booked a nice resort, The Barn. It is tucked away in a wooded area. To reach the resort, one must drive about 2 km away from the tarred road through a rough, uneven, narrow pathway. 

Three of the 10 cottages.

However, the vast resort premises is mainly open space barring about 10 cottages and a building that houses the office, kitchen and restaurant.

In the afternoon, we went to a Coorgi restaurant called Cuisine Papera. Coorg's cuisine is predominantly rice-based. Some well-known dishes are akki roti (flat bread made of rice), noolputtu (steamed rice noodles), pork curry, and bamboo shoot curry.

WEDDING WITHOUT PRIEST

The next day, February 5, Sunday, was the wedding. 

(I am not posting any photos of the wedding. Plenty of images are available online. Give a web search for 'Coorgi wedding'.) 

The wedding eve is a day of fun-filled merriment among relatives at the homes of both the groom and the bride. There is feasting and dancing while preparations go on for the wedding the next day. 

At the bride's home, her mother ties the pathak -- the Coorgi equivalent of the mangal sutra (auspicious thread) -- around the neck of the bride. This is a stark departure from the usual Hindu tradition of the groom tying the thread on the wedding day.

This is very unlike other Hindu weddings. No priest conducts the ceremony, nor are there typical religious rituals. 

The couple prays to their ancestors for their blessings.  

SHOW OF VALOUR

On the wedding day, in the morning, there is the Baale Birud. 

It's a short ceremony, lasting a few minutes, during which the maternal uncles of the groom and the bride slash six stems of banana plants to the accompaniment of song and dance. It symbolises the celebrated valour of Coorgis.

Afterwards, in the wedding hall, the groom and bride, adorned in their traditional costume and finery, ascend the mandap (a temporary decorated platform). 

They are surrounded by their close relatives. who bless the two, who are showered with rice grains. They are also pronounced as a couple amid friendly banter and jokes.

Then the other relatives, friends and guests walk up to bless the couple.  

COUSIN PLAYS SPOILSPORT

As the groom leads the bride out of the mandap (the raised platform) to his house, her path is blocked by her cousin-brother (who traditionally had the right to marry her). 

Friendly, fun-filled arguments and bargaining follow. Currency notes are waved to bribe him, so he will let the bride go. Then, finally, the cousin accepts a gold coin, relents and lets the bride follow her groom.

The morning functions come to an end with lunch. Again, unlike typical Hindu weddings, non-vegetarian food is served.

After a post-meal rest in the afternoon, we returned to the wedding venue in the evening.

SHORT, LONG WALK

In the evening, the main event is the Ganga Pooja. Water is drawn from a well on the premises (symbolising sacred water). 

After prayers, the bride balances three small pots containing the sacred water and walks towards the wedding hall along with a couple of relatives of the groom. This symbolises the bride coming into the groom's household.

There is so much music and dancing around the bride while snacks and drinks are served, enveloping the entire area in an air of celebration.  

The dancing along the bride's path slows her pace so much that she takes at least two hours to walk a distance of about 50 meters!

Most of the time, she stands, holding the water pots on her head rather than walking. Rituals apart, she is helped by others who hold the water pots on her behalf!  

In the wedding hall, she ascends the mandap again and keeps the water pots reverentially at a designated spot.

The dinner concludes the wedding ceremony.

IT'S ALL FUN AND FROLIC

It was great getting to see a Coorgi wedding for the first time. 

Though a wedding is an occasion for celebration, one typically associates a certain amount of solemnity during the ceremony. 

But here was a wedding that combined age-old serious rituals and traditions with lots of fun and frolic. They were all done in an entertaining manner with so much laughter and merrymaking.