Wednesday, June 4, 2025

RCB's IPL victory and tragedy -- lessons to be learnt

A horrific tragedy unfolded in Bengaluru today evening, during an event that should have been a celebration.

Historic victory for RCB

Yesterday, the city was buzzing with joy as the Royal Challengers Bengaluru won the Indian Premier League cricket championship, defeating Punjab Kings by six runs in the final in Ahmedabad. 

It was the first time that RCB won the cup since IPL was launched 18 years ago. Thrice the team was in the final but had lost. 

Such was the euphoria yesterday that within moments, an announcement was made that there would be a victory parade through the city today. The procession was set to start from Vidhana Soudha and end at M Chinnaswamy Stadium.

Victory parades are common

Parades by winners of sports events are nothing new. They happen around the world. But what happened in Bengaluru this evening was tragically unprecedented. 

The stadium, which can hold around 35,000 people, saw crowds of around 200,000 on the roads leading to it. It was like everyone wanted to be part of the celebrations and tried to make their way in.

In the chaos, 11 people lost their lives and scores were injured. Luckily, all the wounded are now out of danger.

Stampedes aren’t new 

People not only form crowds but they try to push and shove to move forward. There have been so many incidents of stampede in our country in which scores have lost their lives. 

Today evening, fans should have restrained themselves. It was common sense that there would be huge crowds for anything to do with cricket in India.

On seeing the surging masses, they should have exercised discretion and gone back home.

Lessons to be learnt

There are a number of lessons to be learned by everyone involved — the fans, the cricket board, and the government.

The RCB and the government should not have announced the victory celebration in such haste, with less than 24 hours’ notice. 

Even if the idea was RCB’s (their enthusiasm is understandable), the government and the police should not have given permission without putting proper crowd control measures in place.

Cricketers didn't deserve this heartbreak

The government, the police, and the RCB fans owe an apology to the cricketers who worked so hard to lift the cup, and also to the families of those who lost their lives, and the wounded. 

The crickerters' achievement has now been overshadowed by this preventable disaster.

Let’s hope at least now we will learn the importance of planning, restraint, and responsibility.

Monday, June 2, 2025

Day 9 - Thane - Canon museum or Cannon museum?

(This is the last part of the Maharashtra tour series. You’ll find the links to all the other parts at the end of this post.)

WEDNESDAY, MAY 14

We reached Thane, the last leg of the tour, from Sainagar (Shirdi) around 4 am, pretty much on time. 

We figured our way to the exit. As is the norm in most Indian railway stations, we were immediately approached by autorickshaw drivers offering us a ride to our destination.

At that hour, we didn't have many options. So, I told one of the drivers the hotel name and the location, and to be sure, showed him the Google Maps location as well. It was about 7 km away.

As I feared, the hotel gate was locked from the inside. So, I called the manager on my phone and got someone to open the gate.

After we checked in and freshened up, we took a nap and woke up quite hungry around 9 am.

Tea and biscuits

Assuming there would be restaurants nearby, I did not opt for a complimentary breakfast option while booking. Now, when I checked Google Maps, there weren’t any restaurants very close by. A couple of them that were not too far off would open only by 11 am.

We were left with asking the hotel reception staff to have tea and biscuits delivered to our room. That was all that was available!

Mysterious museum

Our Thane sojourn was just for a day. The only two engagements were meeting my teacher, Tekale Sir, who taught us General Knowledge and Sanskrit in school and also visiting the mysterious “Canon Museum”.

Sir’s family invited us for lunch, so we made use of the pre-lunch session to visit the museum, which had triggered a lot of curiosity in me while I was planning this entire Maharashtra trip a couple of months ago.

I have explained it all in the post Canon, Cannons, and AI

Here is a summary. While planning the trip, I was checking websites as well as AI platforms like ChatGPT, Gemini, Perplexity, etc. Since I am interested in museums, I thought I would check if Thane had any museums. 
A “Canon Museum” showed up. AI-triggered information was that it's a museum of cameras made by the camera manufacturer Canon. 
There was also a link to the Google Maps location of that place. But when I checked on the Maps, it turned out that it was about cannons, as in artillery, and not cameras. There were photos put up by reviewers. Obviously, AI was misled by the wrong spelling. Even humans would have been.
So, I had decided that when I am in Thane, I will definitely visit this place to figure out what it was all about.

Finally at the museum

When we reached the place, about 5 km from the hotel, it didn’t look like the photos on Google Maps. There was a big gate that led to a vast paved ground. There were no signs of cannons nor Canon’s cameras.



We approached a watchman who was standing nearby and asked him about the museum. At first, he didn’t understand what we were referring to. 

No sooner had I opened Google Maps and showed him the photos the reviewers had posted than he said we were indeed at the right place. He led us in through the gate, and we walked to the left of the ground, where the so-called museum was located. 

We could see the artillery there. So it’s not about Canon cameras but cannons.

Place name change in Google Maps

I have made an edit to the name of the place in Google Maps, changing “Canon museum” to “Cannon museum”. But Google has yet to approve the change I suggested. It’s still under review. A small difference in spelling. But it makes a huge difference in meaning.

Not really a museum

It is a well-maintained place, full of different types of trees and plants. It is not exactly a museum. It is just a place where 12 historical cannons are mounted on two raised platforms. 



A caretaker of the place told us that the entire area was once under water and that these weapons were discovered during land reclamation. However, no other information was available regarding the artillery.


There is a children's playground on the premises with equipment like climbers, slides, and a horizontal bar. The caretaker mentioned that from 5 PM until late evening, the place is filled with children playing.


Additionally, there is a small Hanuman temple. A board outside states that the temple is over 100 years old.

The Hanuman temple


The entire area is by the side of a river, but the gate leading to it was closed.

It’s a place where one can spend time to relax and unwind. Since it was morning, we found just a few people there.

Back to school days

After spending around an hour there, we headed to my teacher’s house, where he stayed with his daughter and family. We were treated to a delicious Maharashtrian meal. We were meeting after about 30 years, at least. 

We spent the afternoon reminiscing about our school days. We also reconnected with a couple of common friends. After tea and snacks, we went back to the hotel.

THURSDAY, MAY 15

Around 6 am, we took an Uber from the hotel to Mumbai’s Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, or CSMT (what was once called Victoria Terminus or VT). It took about an hour and we were at the station by 6.45 am well in time for the Udyan Express which would would leave at 8 am and reach Bengaluru at 6 am the next day. 

Perfect start to retired life

It was a great trip, very fulfilling and enjoyable -- four places in10 days. I had fears of a heat wave ruining our outings. But mercifully, it wasn’t as hot as I expected. 

We also had worries if the border conflict would escalate further. During the trip, we learned that it was indeed a valid fear because several tourist destinations were planning to shut down if there was an escalation.

Thankfully, everything went off well. It was the perfect start to the new phase of my life, when I would be free from the hectic office-bound routine, giving myself the luxury of a slow-paced life.

(Concluded)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series


Monday, May 26, 2025

Day 8 - Shani Shingnapur and Shirdi

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

TUESDAY, MAY 13

Our next destination was Shirdi, a temple town about 100 km west of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (formerly Aurangabad).

During our last visit to Shirdi several years ago, we had hoped to visit the Shani Shingnapur temple, around 70 km southeast of Shirdi. We couldn't make it then due to time constraints. This time, we were determined not to miss it.

Shani Shingnapur is a small village located about 80 km southwest of Sambhajinagar. We left our hotel at Chh Sambhajinagar in a cab around 8 am and reached the village by 10:30 am.

A village without locks

Shani Shingnapur is unlike any other village — none of the buildings here, including houses, shops, and even the local bank, have doors or locks!

A house without a door. Image credit: Swati Jain/BBC

This practice is rooted in a centuries-old legend. Around 300 to 400 years ago, after a flood, shepherds discovered a large black stone by the riverside. 

One of them had a dream in which Lord Shani (the Hindu deity associated with the planet Saturn) appeared and revealed that the stone was a manifestation of himself. The deity instructed that the stone be worshipped in the open, without any roof or enclosure.

Since then, the belief has persisted that Lord Shani protects the village, and anyone attempting theft would face divine punishment. As a result, the villagers have chosen to live without locks.

Temple visit and rituals

Upon arriving at the temple, we were immediately approached by a man who informed us that belts and watches were not allowed inside, as their metal fasteners resemble locks. He then led us to a nearby stall offering various ritual items arranged on a plate.

The holy black stone, the idol of Lord Shani. Image credit: Swati Jain/BBC 

He explained the significance of each item before quoting the cost. At this temple, poojas and rituals are performed by the devotees themselves. Since many visitors may not be familiar with the procedures, a guide is typically assigned, and he expects a donation at the end.

Interestingly, we noticed that most people didn't have the plateful of items we were offered. Either they had brought their own pooja items, or they picked just a few from the stall. Later, we came to know that there is no need to buy all the items; one could pick and choose.

Historically, women were barred from entering the temple's inner sanctum. However, a landmark court ruling in 2016 overturned this restriction. Still, many women choose to stay outside the sanctum, respecting long-standing traditions.

Arrival in Shirdi

We completed the rituals and left for Shirdi around 11 am. We reached there by 12:30 pm and checked into a hotel.

Also known as Sainagar, Shirdi is a small pilgrimage town spread across 13 square kilometres and home to about 36,000 people (as per the 2011 Census).

Sai Baba. Image credit: Shree Saibaba Sansthan Trust

The town is famous for its shrine dedicated to Sai Baba, a revered spiritual figure whose teachings transcended religious boundaries and attracted both Hindus and Muslims. Believed to have been born in 1838, Sai Baba arrived in Shirdi at the age of 16.

He was first seen meditating under a neem tree and lived an ascetic life, initially sleeping in a temple and later in a mosque. His teachings emphasised Shraddha (faith) and Saburi (patience), advocating love, peace, forgiveness, and the belief that God is one and omnipresent.

Sai Baba passed away in 1918, and a temple was built at the site of his samadhi (final resting place). Today, tens of thousands of devotees visit the shrine daily, regardless of their religious background.

Peaceful darshan and departure

We were fortunate to visit the temple when the crowd was relatively thin. Our went to the temple at 1 pm was smooth, and we returned to our hotel by 3 pm to rest. Unlike at Shani Shingnapur, here, there wasn't anyone compelling us to buy anything.

After an early dinner at 8 pm, we headed to the railway station to catch our train to Thane, the final destination of our Maharashtra tour.

Sainagar Shirdi Railway Station

Despite being a small town, Shirdi is well connected with its own railway station (operational since 2009) and an airport (opened in 2017). 

The  Sainagar Shirdi Railway Station.

The Sainagar Shirdi railway station is a bit removed from the main road. While the platform displays indicated train numbers and coach positions, we didn’t hear any announcements — perhaps because of the station’s limited traffic.

Trains connect Sainagar to several major cities. We boarded the 12132 Sainagar-Dadar Express, which operates on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.

The train departed on time and was expected to reach Thane around 4 am.

(To be continued)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series

Wednesday, May 21, 2025

Day 7 - Sambhaji Nagar - Paithani saris, Bibi Ka Maqbara

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

MONDAY, MAY 12

After visiting the Ellora Caves and two temples, we had lunch and headed to two more places. 

Paithani saris

One of the most remarkable things about Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (formerly called Aurangabad) is its famous Paithani sari. 

Named after the town of Paithan, where these exquisite saris were first handwoven, Paithani remains a highly sought-after traditional garment, especially for festive occasions and weddings. 

Very often, we can see news items of celebrities flaunting the latest Paithani designs at public events.

Paithan itself was once the capital of the Satavahana dynasty around 200 BC, a fact that adds to the sari’s historical significance. Today, Yeola town in Nashik is known as the largest manufacturer of Paithani saris.


After lunch, we visited the Aurangabad Silk Mills on Paithan Road, close to the railway station. An official kindly took us inside and explained the intricate process of making Paithani fabric. 

The saris are either machine-made or handwoven on traditional looms using fine silk and zari threads; the latter is a process that can take several months to complete a single piece.

Intricate designs

Paithani saris gained immense popularity under the patronage of the Peshwas and the Nizams. During the 18th century, these saris became an essential part of the royal wardrobe.


We were told that what makes Paithani truly special is the “extra weft” technique, where additional threads are woven into the fabric to create intricate designs.

The motifs often feature peacocks, lotus flowers, and geometric patterns. The weaving technique is so unique that the design is visible on both sides of the fabric.


Thanks to online platforms like Flipkart and Craftsvilla, local weavers now have access to wider markets, allowing this exquisite handloom craft to thrive and remain accessible to sari lovers everywhere.

Himroo fabric

Another gem of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar is Himroo, a fabric made from a blend of silk and cotton grown locally. 


It was introduced to the city during the reign of Mohammad Tughlaq, who shifted his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad (now in Aurangabad).


The name Himroo comes from the Persian word Hum-ruh, meaning ‘similar’. This fabric is a beautiful replication of Kinkhwab, once woven with pure gold and silver threads exclusively for royal families. Today, Himroo remains a symbol of luxury and tradition.

Taj of the Deccan

We also visited Bibi Ka Maqbara. This mausoleum was commissioned in 1660 by Prince Azam Shah in memory of his mother, Dilras Banu Begum, wife of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb.


Bibi Ka Maqbara bears a striking resemblance to the Taj Mahal in Agra, built for Aurangzeb’s mother, Mumtaz Mahal. Thus is it is often referred to as the “Taj of the Deccan”. 

The monument stands majestically on a high square platform with four minarets at its corners. Nearby, there is a mosque added later by the Nizam of Hyderabad, though it is no longer used for prayers.


The mausoleum is open daily from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM. Entry fees are ₹25 for Indian citizens and ₹300 for foreign nationals, with free entry for children under 15 years.

It must be said that this monument ranks a shade below the Taj in terms of overall upkeep, with signs of neglect all too evident. The plasterwork on the minarets has worn out and blackened in a few places. 

Hopefully, the Archaeological Survey of India will act fast to restore the past glory of the monument and put in place measures to conserve it.

(To be continued)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series



Friday, May 16, 2025

Day 7 - Sambhaji Nagar - Ellora Caves

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

We arrived back in Bengaluru this morning. The latter part of the 10-day tour was quite hectic, so I didn’t have much time to post updates. 

All in all, it was a very enjoyable holiday. We visited four cities, saw many interesting places, and caught up with a few friends, too.

The previous posts on the tour were published from the Blogger mobile app. The photos appear in a small size. I have made them bigger now.  

The travelogue resumes.

MONDAY, MAY 12

Our hotel had its own cab service, so arranging transport was easy. We started early – around 6.15 am.

The main highlight of our trip was the Ellora Caves. Though Ajanta Caves is equally famous, we skipped it as it’s over 100 km away.

Ellora is just 29 km from Aurangabad, and we reached there early, before the sun got too harsh. 

A foreigner?

At the ticket counter, I had a bit of an amusing encounter. 

When I told the official, "Two tickets, please," he asked me, "Are you a foreigner?" 

My "No, I'm Indian" followed by "From Bangalore in Karnataka" didn't seem to entirely convince him. 

I have no idea what made him think that I was a foreigner. Perhaps it was my hat. People here usually sport a cap. 

The ticket price difference is quite stark: ₹40 for Indians versus ₹600 for foreign visitors. The higher rate for foreigners is common at all Indian historical sites.

Anyway, without asking for any identification document, the official issued me two ₹40 tickets.

Do you need a guide?

Guides approached us, claiming to be government-approved and showing ID cards. 

But you don’t really need one, as there's enough info on the boards and plenty online. 

Still, a guide can enrich the experience by explaining the sculptures and stories behind them.

Caves 1 to 5

The marvel

Ellora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to one of the world’s largest rock-cut cave complexes. There are over 100 caves in total, though only 34 are open to visitors – 12 Buddhist, 17 Hindu, and 5 Jain.

Caves 1 to 5

The site stretches over 2 km. The caves are carved into the basalt cliffs of the Charanandri Hills.

The caves were built between 600 and 1000 AD, mainly during the Rashtrakuta and Yadava dynasties. Royals, traders and wealthy patrons funded these massive projects.

The hall in Cave 5 

Buddhist caves 1 TO 12

These were the earliest, built between the 6th and 8th centuries. Most of them are viharas or monasteries with prayer halls, living areas, and kitchens.

Hindu caves 13 TO 29

Cave 16



Built in two phases, the highlight of the segment of Hindu caves is Cave 16, the Kailash Temple. 

It’s an architectural wonder, carved from a single rock and shaped like a chariot dedicated to Lord Shiva. 

We were told that it took over 200 years and generations of workers to complete it.

Jain caves 30 TO 34

These are about 2 km away from the main group, but electric buggies make the ride easy. 



Though smaller, the carvings are intricate and beautiful. These caves have a very similar architectural style and devotional patterns.

Weather was kind 

It was warm but manageable. We had our hats and we kept sipping water mixed with Electral. 

(Electral is an oral rehydration salt formulation that can be added to water. It's good for rapid rehydration and energy replenishment.)

Two unique temples

We also visited two nearby temples:

Grushneshwar Jyotirlinga Temple, just half a kilometre away, is one of the 12 sacred Jyotirlingas of the Hindu god Shiva. (Jyotirlinga is a devotional representation of Shiva.) The temple had suffered significant damage during conflicts, and it was repeatedly rebuilt,  the latest restoration done in 1729.

The other one was the Bhadra Maruti Temple, about 4 km from Ellora, dedicated to Lord Hanuman in a rare reclining posture. Only one other such temple exists, in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, where the lord is in a reclining position.

Don't miss it

Ellora Caves are truly a marvel, not just for their size, but also for the skill, devotion and vision of the people who worked on them. To think these structures were carved centuries ago without modern tools is mind-blowing. If you ever get a chance, don’t miss it!

We visited two more places today. That will be in the next post in a few days.

(To be continued)

Maharashtra tour 2025 series


Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Day 6 - Sambhaji Nagar - A special breakfast and a tryst with nature

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

SUNDAY, MAY 11

We reached Aurangabad Railway Station at 8.15 am — three hours behind schedule. Our train had left Pune late last night due to the delay of the incoming train, but the journey was smooth and comfortable.

Interestingly, while the city's name was changed to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar in 2023, the railway station still retains the old name. 

Our hotel was just under a kilometre away, so we decided to walk. The roads were quiet, and the morning sun was already making its presence felt.

Once, this was the capital 

Sambhaji Nagar is the largest city in the Marathwada region and the fifth-most populous in Maharashtra, after Mumbai, Pune, Nagpur and Nashik. Located on hilly upland terrain, it has a population of over 1.1 million.

This city is steeped in history. It has seen many rulers over the centuries. During the rule of the Delhi Sultanate, the capital was briefly moved to nearby Daulatabad, which is now a part of Sambhaji Nagar. 

Later, in 1636, Aurangzeb — then the Mughal viceroy of the Deccan — annexed the city into the Mughal Empire. He renamed it Aurangabad in 1653 and made it the capital of the Deccan region.

In those times, the city had 54 suburbs within its walls. The most prominent among them were Begumpura and Aurangpura. The city also had 54 gates, serving as protective arches -- only a few can be seen today.

Meeting my Hindi teacher

After freshening up, my friend came to pick us up at 9.30 am. We visited his home for breakfast. 

This friend is the brother of our friends from Pune, with whom we had dinner on the 9th. Their father, our Hindi teacher from school, now lives here, their ancestral place. 

It was a joy to meet Sir and his lovely family—his wife, son, daughter-in-law, and grandson. For breakfast, we had a traditional Maharashtrian dish called Thaalipeeth, served with butter, ghee, curd and payasam. A hot cup of tea followed. It was a heavy and satisfying meal.

We sat for a while, chatting and remembering our school days. Teachers like him shaped our lives in many ways, and we owe them a great deal.

After returning to the hotel in the afternoon, we took some much-needed rest. The overnight train journey and the blazing summer heat — around 40°C — had taken a toll on us.

Siddharth Garden and Zoo

By 5.30 pm, we headed out to Siddharth Garden and Zoo, located about 3 km from the railway station. I’ve always enjoyed watching animals and birds, and it was nice to see that many animals here, like tigers and leopards, were kept in open enclosures, not cages.


The place is well-maintained and quite vast. The lush green lawns, flowering plants, and majestic trees made for a peaceful setting.

Being a Sunday, it was crowded, with children making up much of the lively crowd. The garden is a favourite among joggers, photographers, and nature lovers.


The zoo has a good collection of animals — tigers, leopards, civet cats, snakes, crocodiles, foxes, deer, etc. There is even an aquarium with a colourful variety of fish. We also saw a large Buddha statue being decorated, ahead of Buddha Jayanti celebrations tomorrow.

After a light dinner, we returned to the hotel and called it a day.

Preparing for tomorrow

Tomorrow will be a day of sightseeing. Since it's summer, we plan to set out quite early, maybe around 6 am.

Hopefully, the climate change phenomenon will work in our favour, with maybe even an unexpected summer shower to bring the temperature down. 

Either way, we’re looking forward to exploring the historical treasures of this fascinating city.

Sunday, May 11, 2025

Day 5 - Pune - Whirlwind tour and news flash

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

Yesterday, the 10th of May, turned out to be a super busy day for us in Pune! We managed to soak in so much history and culture before packing our bags for our next stop, Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar (formerly Aurangabad).

Shaniwar Wada 

Our first stop, soon after breakfast, was Shaniwar Wada. This impressive fort is a big landmark in Pune. 

The entrance to the fort

Built way back in 1732, it used to be the home of the Peshwas, who were like the "prime ministers" of the Maratha kingdom, until 1818. It's quite sad to hear that a big fire in 1828 destroyed most of the fort. Imagine, it was said to have been seven stories high!

The view from the top of the fort, that is the 1st floor.

We learned that Peshwa Baji Rao I started building his house here on a Saturday (Shaniwar in Marathi) in the year 1730, and that's how it got its name, Shaniwar Wada (Saturday Residence). The opening ceremony was also held on a Saturday, a lucky day, in 1732.

Lal Mahal

From the top of Shaniwar Wada, we could actually see our next destination, Lal Mahal (Red Palace), so we just took a short walk.

Lal Mahal

This place is really special because Shivaji Maharaj, the founder of the Maratha Empire, spent his childhood here. He lived here with his mother, Jijabai, until he captured Torna fort in 1645. His wedding to his first wife, Saibai, happened here in 1640.

It's interesting to know that the original Lal Mahal was ruined over time and eventually torn down. Apparently, some of its soil and stones were even used when building Shaniwar Wada, which was considered good luck! 

The current structure is actually a reconstruction, standing near where the original palace is thought to have been.

Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum 

Our next stop was the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, about a kilometre away, which we decided to walk to. There's an entry fee of ₹100, and they don't allow photography inside. 

But let me tell you, this museum is fantastic if you're interested in history and how everyday people in India used to live.

The museum is the collection of Dr. Dinkar G. Kelkar, a writer, art collector, and historian, who dedicated it to his son, Raja. 

The three floors are filled with all sorts of amazing things – sculptures, beautiful ornaments made of ivory, silver, and gold, a wonderful collection of musical instruments, and even old weapons and vessels, mostly from the 19th century.

I was told that Dr. Kelkar spent over 60 years collecting over 20,000 objects, including photographs, books, paintings, textiles, toys, and so much more! 

He wanted to create a place that showed the richness of Indian culture and everyday life. He even ran the museum until the government took over in 1985. It's truly a treasure trove! Really worth a visit if you are in Pune. 

Pataleshwar Cave

After the museum, we hopped into an autorickshaw for a short 2.5 km ride to the Pataleshwar Cave Temple. 

The entrance to the cave is through a large open area with big, shady trees, like banyan trees. It felt very peaceful there, with many people just relaxing and enjoying the calm atmosphere.

The Pataleshwar Cave is really old, dating back to the 8th century! It was built by the Rashtrakuta dynasty and is probably the oldest thing still standing in Pune. 

We walked down a few steps to a central circular platform, which is the Nandi mandap. It has 16 pillars supporting it, with a statue of the Nandi bull facing the main hall to the west.

What's amazing is that the entire temple is carved out of a single hill! Its name means "underground lord" because it's located below ground level.

Donald Trump's surprise announcement 

After we visited the cave, we returned to our hotel around 3 in the afternoon. We rested for a bit and then started packing our bags because we had a train to catch at 9:30 pm to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar.

While we were packing, around 5 pm, we saw a news flash on TV – US President Donald Trump announced that India and Pakistan had agreed to a ceasefire! 

It was definitely a very "Trump" kind of announcement! Because, though the US was talking to India and Pakistan, it wasn't openly involved in mediation.

Later that night, there were reports of explosions in Srinagar, which made us wonder if the ceasefire had already been broken. But it could also be that the news hadn't reached all the soldiers on the border yet.

It's good that the fighting is ending. Because an escalation could have had catastrophic consequences. 

Our train, which was supposed to leave at 9:30 pm, ended up being delayed by almost an hour and a half. 

Eventually, we boarded and started our journey towards Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, carrying with us the memories of a day filled with history, art, and the rather unexpected but good piece of news on the Kashmir conflict.

Saturday, May 10, 2025

Day 4 - Pune - History, temple, and reminiscences

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

Yesterday (May 9) morning, we packed our bags and hopped over to a new hotel right in the heart of Pune city. It's much better being here, as many touristy places are close by. Our last place was about 20 kilometres away!

Uber and auto fare

We took an autorickshaw for the trip to the city centre, and I learnt something new. I had booked the ride on Uber. 

But the driver told me that I will have to pay according to what the fare meter in the vehicle displays and not what the app shows. 

I was confused, but I was told that the Pune corporation has allowed drivers to charge by the meter even if the booking is made via an app. I am told that sometimes the meter fare is lower than what the app shows.

While booking, the app says that the payment has to be made directly to the driver. 

How much did I pay? ₹50 more than what the Uber app showed.

Basically, the app is only for booking a ride. The fare doesn't apply. 


Aga Khan Palace
 

Once we checked in, we headed straight for the Aga Khan Palace.

This was built by Sultan Muhammed Shah Aga Khan III way back in 1892.

But it's probably most famous for being where Mahatma Gandhi, his wife Kasturba, and his secretary Mahadev Desai were held as prisoners during India's independence movement.

The sculptures of Mahatma Gandhi struck me as very real. For a moment, I thought it was really Gandhi sitting there.

Both Kasturba and Desai passed away here while being held as prisoners. In the photo below, in the centre is Kasturba's 'samadi' (memorial), on the left is that of Desai, and on the right are the ashes of the Mahatma.


It's a really peaceful spot now, with lovely gardens and a museum where you can learn all about its past. The museum is rooms that were once used by our freedom fighters and national leaders.

After lunch, we spent the time indoors in the hotel room as it began to rain rather heavily.

Dagdusheth Halwai Ganesh temple
 
In the evening, we went to the Dagdusheth Halwai Ganapati Temple. It's a really vibrant and colourful temple, over 100 years old, dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the Hindu god of wisdom and new beginnings. 

The idol is 2.2 metres tall and 1 metre wide, and is adorned with nearly 40 kg of gold. Interestingly, unlike in other temples, the deity can be seen from outside the temple premises. 

The trust that administers the temple carries out a number of philanthropic activities with the money it receives from the devotees. 

Dinner with friends

From the temple, we went for dinner with three friends – they're siblings – and their families. They were my schoolmates way back in Kerala, and their dad was my Hindi teacher. 

(We will be meeting him in a few days when we go to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar.) 

It's been over 30 years since I last saw them. It was such a brilliant get-together, just chatting away and reminiscing about all our old school days.

It was truly lovely catching up and reliving those childhood memories. A proper good evening, it was!


Thursday, May 8, 2025

Day 3 - Pune - A day of mixed emotions

(You’ll find links to all parts of this Maharashtra tour series at the end of this post.)

Today was the wedding day of my wife's cousin's son. A day of joy and family reunion.

Old connections were renewed, and new ones were made. It was heartwarming to see relatives I hadn’t met in years and to share family updates and general banter.

My wife had a special moment today. She discovered that a relative of the groom’s father is from Bhopal, the city where she grew up and studied. As they talked, they realised they had many common acquaintances from Bhopal. 

It’s amazing how weddings can bring together people from different places and backgrounds, making the world feel a little smaller and friendlier.

Wedding rituals 

Kerala Nair weddings are known for their simplicity and warmth. The ceremonies are brief, focusing on family and togetherness rather than elaborate rituals. 

I won't go into all the details. It's all there on websites and YouTube. 

In a nutshell, the main rituals include the arrival of the groom and the bride, both getting the blessings of their parents, tying of the 'thali' (a sacred necklace) by the groom around the bride's neck, exchange of rings and garlands, presentation of a sari to the bride by the groom, and both walking around a lighted lamp seven times. 

That's about it. In about half an hour, it was all over. The ceremony ended with a 'sadya' or a feast. 

War-like scenario 

While the wedding was full of happiness, soon after, the mood shifted as news started coming in about rising tensions between India and Pakistan. 

Lots of developments have taken place throughout the day. 

Pakistan attempted to hit military installations in 15 cities in border states. All the attempts were thwarted by India's defence systems. 

India retaliated with drone attacks on Pakistan military assets in Lahore and Rawalpindi, which is the seat of their military establishment. Their defence systems were destroyed. 

In the night around 9, we got to know that Pakistan missiles, which were targeting Indian air bases, were intercepted and destroyed over the border states.

It's no longer occasional skirmishes or shelling over the border. It is very much a war-like scenario with blackouts and sirens going off in the border states. 

The US is speaking to both nations, asking them to de-escalate. India has clearly stated that every attempt to escalate will trigger a retaliation.